Where to Shop in Cartagena's Old Town: Three Places, and What They're Actually For

Quick answer

For souvenirs in Cartagena's Old Town, go to Las Bóvedas: 23 vaulted arches built into the wall at the north end of the walled city, between the forts of Santa Clara and Santa Catalina, now craft and souvenir shops, free to walk through. For sweets, it's Portal de los Dulces, the arcade of sweet stalls facing the Clock Tower. For actual brands and air conditioning, La Serrezuela, a shopping centre built inside a former bullring in the Centro Histórico. That's the whole map. Go to Las Bóvedas in the morning, because the vaults face the sun and the sellers get harder work in the afternoon.

A seller standing in front of a wall of paintings in Cartagena.
Craft and art sellers in the Old Town. · Photo by Mauro Lima on Unsplash

Shopping in the Old Town is smaller than the internet makes it sound. There are three places that matter, they do three different jobs, and once you know which is which you can do the lot in a morning.

We're on Carrera 7 in San Diego, at the northern end of the walled city, which puts us closest to the one you probably came for. Las Bóvedas is our end of town, built into the wall itself. The sweet stalls are down at the other end by the Clock Tower, and the air-conditioned option sits in between.

Two things we tell guests before they go out. First, go early. Almost all of this is under open arches or awnings, and by noon you're shopping while sweating, which shortens everyone's patience including the seller's. Second, prices here are opening positions, not labels. A polite counter is expected at the craft stalls and unwelcome at the brand shops, and you'll know instantly which one you're in.

What's genuinely worth carrying home from this city: the woven caña flecha hats and baskets from the Zenú tradition, hammocks, and coffee. What isn't: the mass-printed tote bags that are identical in every stall in every vault, which is fine if you know that's what you're buying.

And if the shopping gets away from you, we're four floors up with two plunge pools and a bar that opens at 8am. Head up to the rooftop, it's open till midnight.

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